Indonesia, a country with more than
18.000 islands, is rich and unique in its natural and cultural
diversity: from the tropical rainforests of Sumatra to the
dry savannah landscape of Timor, from the explosive volcanoes
of Java to the snow covered glaciers of West New Guinea
– there are more than 220 million people from over
600 ethnic groups who call this archipelago their home.
Far from the tourist tracks lie the Moluccans, a group
of more than 1.000 islands, spreading over a distance
of 1.000 km from Morotai in the North to Tanimbar in the
South. The Moluccans are also called the “Spice
Islands”, as they were – until the late 18th
century – the only place in the world where clove,
mace and nutmeg grew. For hundreds of years, seafarers,
pirates and explorers were sailing over the oceans to
find those invaluable spices. Long before the Europeans
discovered the islands, the inhabitants had had trading
connections with Arabs, Chinese, Malays and Indians. At
the beginning of the 16th century, the Portuguese, Spaniards,
Dutch and Englishmen found their way to the legendary
“Spice Islands” and tried to establish trading
posts there.
Today, aside from clove and nutmeg, the islanders grow
cocoanuts and work as fishermen, pearl divers and collect
sea cucumbers for the Chinese market.
The Moluccans, except Aru, are situated within the so-called
Wallacea zone, a region between the Asian and Australian
fauna, and are well-known for the huge variety of birds,
insects, fish and marine life, most notable the Moluccan
cockatoo and the Dugong, a sea cow.
In spite close trading links for hundreds of years with
Chinese, Moslem Arabs and Malays, Christian Europeans
and Missionary activities through Christian churches,
one can still find lively animistic traditions and beliefs
and ancestor worship throughout the Moluccan islands.
Far from the traditional trading
routes lies the southern coast of West New Guinea. Although
– aside from others – James Cook had gone
ashore there during one of his around-the-world trips
in the 1770’s and the Dutch seaman Carstensz had
seen the snow-capped top of Puncak Jaya (formerly Carstensz
Pyramid), the hostile environment and the equally hostile
inhabitants, who were feared headhunters and cannibals,
kept the Europeans away from the southern coast for a
long time.
Only in the 20th century did the Dutch colonial government
start to open up the coast, pacify the inhabitants and
explore the rivers. At the beginning of the 20th century,
Dutch and English expeditions tried to reach the glaciers
and in the middle of the century, Catholic missionaries
began their work in the Asmat territory. Meanwhile, the
feared headhunters have turned into Christians and are
now famous for their exquisite woodcarvings that fetch
good prices with primitive art collectors around the world.
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